The day started badly….no coffee, or breakfast, then missed a turn and had to backtrack. But things turned around with this…

The morning was a bit of a slog, and we had to spend time navigating, which was a drag. Finally got our last glimpses of the ocean in the afternoon.

Crossed this bridge to arrive in Galicia, and the city of Ribadeo.

Couple we met in the stairs in Ribadeo


Pleasant day walking in rural countryside with substantial dairy farms and cornfields. Speaking if corn, here is a sampling of the abundant horreos (traditional corn cribs). Extremely sturdily built, sine refurbished.

Last day in Asturias coming up. Hard to believe. Staying in the countryside tonight. Dinner was peanut butter, rice cakes, chocolate and apple .


Today, for the first time in 25 days of walking, the difficulty rating, on a scale of 1-3, was a 1. Short day “relatively” flat. We passed through areas of recent forest fires, which seem to have been deliberately set recently. And what is left of a cemetery for the remains of Muslim (moorish) soldiers who fought for Franco. We’re in Luarca, very picturesque. Trying to get our clothes dry and do all the chores before setting out to find dinner, impossible before 8pm. Four difficult days ahead.

Muslim cemetery-controversial
This morning


Great day! Rather that take the coastal option, we decided to walk the mountain route, with a climb up to and along a ridge. We ascended to 635 metres, and had splendid vistas on both sides. The only person we saw was a man getting ready to fly his drone. It was silent and beautiful. Not easy, but worth the effort. We descended as heavy mist rolled in, and we could only see the path in front of us. On arriving at our hotel, we quickly downed two large beers, a large bottle of cold water and two cafes con leche. Photos so not capture the beauty of what we saw-you had to be there.

Mist starting to come in

Soto de Luina

While today’s stage was not long, the guidebook stated “you will be going up and down all day”. They did not lie! My favourite section was through the forest outside Muros de Nalon, away from the highway and before it got hot.

You know it’s a slow day when one of the highlights is finding a picnic table, in the shade, for lunch.

Lunch: rice cakes, bread, cheese, fruit

Nice views on the way to Soto de Luina.

Muros de Nalon

Relatively easy walk today, with not too much pavement, and mostly remote. Chatted with one of three Canadians I have met, a young lady who just graduated from U of T. The most exciting event of the day was an encounter with a goat. Two women whom we had previously encountered were stopped in front of a long bridge. A goat was at the far end of the bridge. What to do? Four of us and one goat….who held his ground for a while, rang his bell, then backed off. I think he enjoys toying with the occasional walker.

New shoes. Working well after one day
Approaching Muros de Nalon
The Goat. Photo taken from a distance
Dinner – Chiperones a la planchaq


Arrived in Aviles by bus after visiting the Decathlon store in Gijon, where I bought light trail shoes. Then a stop at the Correos (post office) to send my boots to Santiago. We were happy to get out of Gijon, and are much happier in Aviles. The old town is lovely. We are back on the trail tomorrow. My cold is getting better, but Norm has caught it, and is dragging. Fingers crossed tomorrow will not be too tough.

A particularly good cafe con leche


This is a planned day of rest, which came at a very good time. It’s giving me time to take it easy and try and shake a cold which has been dogging me since Monday. Since much of tomorrow’s walk is not very pleasant, we’re taking a bus to Aviles tomorrow, after I visit the Decathlon store to try on hiking shoes. I may trade in my Keens for the softer footwear. The next day we will be back on the trail.

Gluten free treats at Cafe Vicente in
Villaviciosa. In general we’re not having a problem finding gluten free options.
On the way to Gijon
Cider barrel?
Walking into Gijon


Today’s walk was hot, with little shade, a lot of pavement and not a single cafe. Nice rolling green countryside, and an exciting entry into Villaviciosa, that found us crossing a four metre deep and two metre wide culvert filled with running water. None the worse for wear, except for getting stung by a few nettles.

Giant cactus- lunch spot
White bean stew with chorizo and blood sausage -part of menu del dia
This is how cider is poured
Tomorrow’s walk. 30 km and two big hills